INSTALLATION GUIDELINES

Before beginning installation, it's crucial to thoroughly review all provided instructions. Additionally, we recommend following the installation guidelines outlined by the National Wood Flooring Association (NWFA) found at www.nwfa.org. In cases where there is a difference between these instructions and the NWFA guidelines, prioritize the instructions provided here.

ENGINEERED FLOORING INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

PRIOR TO INSTALLATION

It falls upon the installer to ensure that all General Conditions outlined below are met before initiating installation. Carefully adhere to the specific installation instructions corresponding to your chosen method (Glue Down, Nail Down, or Floating Floor), and if applicable, Radiant Heat Systems. When installed following these instructions, Volo Floors' Engineered Hardwood Flooring is suitable for use above, on, and below grade. For installations below grade, utilize the Floating Floor installation method.

Inspect the flooring before installation for color, grade, gloss, and any visible manufacturing defects or damage. Do not install damaged or unsatisfactory material. Acceptance of a plank implies acknowledgment of its appearance. For any concerns regarding material quality, contact your local retailer, distributor, or Volo Floors BEFORE INSTALLATION.

For installations over radiant heat, refer to the 'Radiant Heat Systems' section below before finalizing product selection or beginning installation. Adherence to these guidelines is crucial for a successful installation covered under warranty. Note that certain wood species are not warranted for installation over any type of radiant heat. Volo Floors does not warranty ANY flooring installed over electric radiant heat systems. Only hydronic (water) systems may be approved. In wood flooring installations over radiant heat, moderate surface checking, cracking, shrinkage, gapping, and slight cupping are normal and do not constitute a product defect.

GENERAL CONDITIONS — ALL INSTALLATION METHODS

ENVIRONMENTAL CONDITIONS

Wood expands when absorbing moisture and contracts when expelling it. To minimize moisture-related expansion and contraction, ensure the following conditions are met before installation:

All exterior walls, windows, and doors must be installed, and the building envelope must be closed during acclimation and installation.

Complete all wet work such as painting, drywall, masonry, and concrete, ensuring they are dry.

Basements and crawl spaces should be dry and well ventilated. Crawl spaces should have a minimum height of 18" from the ground to the bottom of the joist. Cover dirt floors in crawl spaces with 6-10 mil black plastic to reduce moisture migration. Seal seams with waterproof tape. Provide perimeter crawl space cross-ventilation equivalent to 1.5% of the square footage, with vents remaining open year-round.

Exterior grading should be finished, ensuring drainage moves away from the building structure with a minimum drop of 3" in 10'.

ACCLIMATION

Ensure the flooring is properly acclimated to site conditions before installation. Maintain permanent HVAC systems between 60-75°F with a relative humidity of 35%-55% for at least 7 days before and during installation. Humidity levels below 35% may cause movement, gapping, and cupping in the flooring. Consider using a humidification/dehumidification system to maintain proper humidity levels, particularly over radiant heat.

Deliver flooring to the job site and open packages at least 5 days before installation. Additional requirements apply when installing over radiant heat. Refer to the 'Radiant Heat Systems' section below for details.

SUBFLOOR CONDITIONS

SUBFLOORS MUST BE:

Clean: Scrape subfloors clean and remove debris. Sweep or vacuum thoroughly to prevent over-wood and ensure a level surface.

Flat: Subfloors must be within 3/16" over any 10' radius and 1/8" over any 6' radius. Check flatness using a straight edge, laser line, or string line. Address high or low spots by grinding, scraping, sanding, or shimming. On concrete subfloors, grind high areas and fill low areas using quality cementitious leveling compound. Ensure all fasteners securing subfloors are flush.

Dry: Check and record moisture and temperature conditions before installation. Inspect for potential moisture problems such as water intrusion around windows and doors, or mold/fungus growth. Moisture readings should not exceed 10% in any location, with a moisture variation of no more than 2% between subfloor and flooring at installation time.

Plywood and composite subfloors should be checked using a calibrated moisture meter. Be sure to use the correct moisture meter setting for the species being checked. Carefully follow the moisture meter manufacturer's operating instructions. Moisture readings should not exceed 10% in any location and the moisture variation between the subfloor and the flooring should not exceed 2% at the time of installation.

Concrete subfloors must be fully cured, at least 60 days old, and should have a minimum 6-mil polyfilm between the concrete and ground. Lightweight concrete can hold more moisture and may take longer to dry out to acceptable moisture content.

NOTE: These tests give a snapshot of moisture conditions at the time of the test, but do not reflect the permanent year-round condition of the substrate. If Gluing Down on concrete that is on or below grade, it is highly recommended to use a concrete sealer approved by the manufacturer of the adhesive you have chosen, even if you believe the concrete is dry. A concrete slab on or below grade that measures dry today may become moist in the future and cause floor failure. Essex & Co. is not responsible for site related moisture issues.

More stringent requirements regarding the dryness of the subfloor apply when installing over radiant heat. See below under 'Radiant Heat Systems' for details.

Structurally Sound: Wood subfloors must be well-fastened with screws every 6" and should eliminate all movement and squeaking.

ACCEPTABLE SUBFLOOR TYPES INCLUDE:

CDX plywood: At least 5/8" thick for joist spacing up to 16" on center, minimum 3/4" thick for greater joist spacing. Plywood over concrete must follow NWFA guidelines.

OSB: At least 3/4" thick, PS 2-92 or PS 1-95 rated.

Existing hardwood flooring over a suitable subfloor meeting above requirements.

Underlayment grade particleboard (minimum 40 lb. density) for Glue Down/Floating Floors.

Concrete slab for Glue Down/Floating Floors. Concrete must be at least 3000 lbs. density for Glue Down installations.

Lightweight concrete (gypcrete) for Floating Floors. Gluing to concrete below 3000 lbs. density is not warranted.

Ceramic tile for Floating Floors, provided it is well-adhered and flat.

Resilient tile & sheet vinyl for Glue Down/Floating Floors, with new and non-urethane-coated tile/vinyl for glue-down applications.

PREPARING THE PERIMETER

Undercut door trim, jambs, and casings to match the thickness of the flooring plus any adhesives or underlayments planned for use.

LAYOUT

On wood subfloors fastened to joists/trusses, install flooring perpendicular or at a 45° angle to joists/trusses. Begin preferably at an outside wall.

GENERAL TOOLS AND RECOMMENDED ACCESSORIES

1. Safety Glasses

2. Dust Mask

3. Utility Knife

4. Hammer

5. Carpenter square

6. Pry-bar or pull-bar

7. Tapping Block

8. Rubber Mallet

9. Moisture Meter

10. Tape Measure

11. Chalk Box & Chalk

12. Pencil

13. Shim Wedges

14. Wood Filler

15. Scraper

16. Rags

17. Broom and Dust Pan

18. Shop Vacuum (Optional)

19. Recommended Saws: power miter saw, table saw, jamb saw

Once all General Conditions are met, proceed with installation using the instructions for your chosen installation type(s) (Nail-Down, Glue-Down, Nail + Glue, Floating Floor, and Radiant Heat Systems).

NAIL DOWN INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

Volo Floors' Engineered Wood Flooring can be nailed to plywood, OSB, and existing wood flooring meeting specified requirements. Follow these steps for engineered planks up to 8” wide:

If possible, use an outside wall as the starting point. Measure out from the starting wall the width of one flooring plank plus the appropriate expansion space for that thickness of flooring. Mark two points toward each end of the starting wall and snap a chalk line along the full length of the wall through the marks.

Lay the tongue side of the first row of flooring along the chalk line. Face nail (top nail) the first row of flooring in place. Place the fasteners approximately 3/4" from the wall side (groove side) of the flooring board every 4" to 6". Continue the first row installation blind/edge nailing every 4" to 6" along the tongue and every 2" to 3" from every end joint. Note: Blind/edge nailing of the first row may require the installer to use 6-d finish nails or the pneumatic finish nailer along the tongue.

Continue the installation across the room, blind/edge nailing every 4" to 6" and 2" to 3" from each end joint. Stagger end joints by at least 8”. Avoid creating “H” patterns (where an end joint is adjacent to another end joint in the second to last row installed).

Trim the last row of flooring to maintain the minimum expansion space at the far wall. Use the trimmed piece to start a subsequent row. Discard any trimmed ends shorter than 8”.

Face-nail the last two or three rows at the far (finish) wall. The last row or two of flooring may need to be pulled together using a pulling bar.

Complete the installation by reinstalling or installing new base moldings.

GLUE DOWN INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

Volo Floors' Engineered Flooring can be glued down to various surfaces, including concrete, plywood, OSB, underlayment grade particleboard, and existing wood floors meeting specified requirements. Follow these steps:

If possible, use an outside wall as the starting point. Measure out from the starting wall the width of the flooring plus the appropriate expansion space for that thickness of the flooring. Mark two points toward each end of the starting wall and snap a chalk line along the full length of the wall through the marks.

Install backer boards as guides along the wall side of the chalk line. Anchor the backer boards in place with screws or finish nails. Over concrete subfloors, anchor the backer boards with concrete screws or concrete nails. These boards will be removed later.

Lay the first row of flooring, but do not glue into place. Align the tongue side of the flooring boards against the backer board. Dry lay the next two rows of flooring in place, sliding the tongue into the groove. End joints should be staggered by at least 8”. Pull the rows of flooring boards out away from the backer board approximately 24” to allow for the glue to be spread.

Trowel spread the adhesive on the subfloor along the backer board wide enough to allow the first three rows of flooring to be installed. Follow the adhesive manufacturer’s recommendations for wet lay times before proceeding to the next step.

Install the first row of flooring, pressing the tongue to the backer board. Slide the tongue of the next row of flooring into the groove of the first row and continue until the first three rows are done.

Trowel spread adhesive and continue the installation across the room. Trim the last row of flooring to maintain the minimum expansion space at the far wall. Be careful not to move the installed flooring out of position. Using knee-boards can help prevent movement. Some flooring boards may need to be tapped or pulled into place with a tapping block or pull bar.

Most adhesives require that the installer clean the adhesive off the flooring boards during the installation. Follow the adhesive manufacturer’s recommendations for this procedure.

Once the room is finished, remove the backer boards at the starter row.

Dry lay the first row of flooring to replace the backer board. Trowel spread the adhesive on the back of the flooring boards (not on the subfloor) and install the flooring, sliding the groove onto the tongue of the already installed starter row. Doorways and other openings may require installation of the flooring the same way. Slide the flooring boards under the previously cut door trims and casings.

Complete the installation by reinstalling or installing new base moldings.

Avoid foot traffic on the floor for 24 hours after installation is complete.